5 Best Ways To Use DL-Panthenol

Discover the hair and skin benefits of DL-Panthenol (Vitamin B5) in DIY cosmetics. It moisturises, smooths, & rejuvenates skin while taming frizz.

What is DL-Panthenol

Dl Panthenol is a wonderful ingredient for your skin, as well as your hair. It is also more commonly known also as ProVitamin B5.

It is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. These two forms are mirror images of each other and have the same chemical formula but different molecular structures. The combination of these two forms is called a racemic mixture, which means that it contains equal amounts of both forms.

The combination is readily absorbed by the skin and the D-Panthenol part converts into Pantothenic Acid, which is also known as Vitamin B5. This mixture is stable, which means that it does not easily break down or react with other substances. The substance is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a moisturizer and humectant.

Why is it Beneficial for Hair and Skin?

DL-Panthenol is a natural constituent of healthy hair and skin, and it plays a crucial role in maintaining their health and appearance. When applied topically, it can penetrate the living cells of the skin and hair, where it works to moisturize and smooth, making it a powerful ingredient in many personal care products.

It was developed in the 1940s and during the Second World War, it was used a lot to help with the healing of wounds. Studies showed that it promotes the stimulation of epithelialization and granulation of the skin. This regenerative and rejuvenating effect is extremely desirable in skincare products.

It is available in a liquid form and a powdered form. The liquid form is less concentrated and is heat sensitive, so it needs to be added in the cool down phase. I prefer the powdered form because it is heat stable and can be added in the heated water stage. Both forms are water-soluble. When using the powdered form, you do have to make sure you close the bag tightly after use. It can be prone to clumping and going hard if you don’t store it properly somewhere dark and dry, and away from humidity.

How To Use DL-Panthenol

The INCI is Panthenol, and it is water-soluble. I generally recommend using it between 1% and 5% in your creams and lotions, with the higher end being used for serums or intensive treatments. It can be added directly to toners and gels. In shampoos and conditioners, I usually use it at 1%. Use it at 1% in cuticle gels where it will penetrate the top layer of the nail and keep it moisturised. This makes the nail stronger and the nail bed healthier.

Beautiful cuticles from using DL-Panthenol

Benefits of DL-Panthenol for Skin

There is a wide range of skin benefits to be gained by adding this to your products. This research study showed that just 1% was effective in hydrating and maintaining the integrity of the skin.

  • It improves the appearance of the skin by smoothing out any dry patches, scaliness or flaky skin. It does this by increasing the hydration within the skin and holding it there, reducing water loss. This moisturising effect becomes even more noticeable when used regularly over several weeks. You will see an improvement in how soft and supple your skin is.
  • DL-Panthenol will also boost the anti-ageing benefits of your cosmetic formulations. It helps to improve the elasticity and smoothness of the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Add it to your anti-ageing creams and serums for amazing results.
  • DL-Panthenol can soothe and calm irritated skin, making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive or acne-prone skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce redness and inflammation. This makes it excellent for itchy skin, and especially eczema and psoriasis. It effectively soothes the skin as it has a good anti-inflammatory effect and improves the elasticity of the skin which reduces cracking and flakiness.
  • It improves the barrier function of the skin, preventing moisture loss and protecting it from environmental damage. It also has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect on UV-induced redness.
  • This study shows that D Panthenol promotes the stimulation of epithelialization and granulation of the skin. This regenerative and rejuvenating effect is extremely desirable in skincare products.
  • Many tattoo artists recommend skincare products containing DL-Panthenol (ProVitamin B5) as after care for their tattoos.

I use it in the Mind Blowing Massage Cream, Blissed Out Body Butter, Cool Conditioner Bar and Stir Crazy Gel in my book Off Your Face Creams. All of these products are cannabis-infused and, as you can now see, will have incredible skin care benefits as well. The book is available on Amazon.co.uk

Benefits of DL-Panthenol for Hair

There are numerous hair care benefits when using it in shampoos, conditioners and hair packs. In all forms, it acts as a humectant, which means it helps to attract and retain moisture in the hair, keeping it hydrated and reducing frizz. This also helps to improve the elasticity and strength of the hair, reducing breakage and promoting healthy growth. 

Panthenol hair products are plentiful out there and many of them promote ProVitamin B5 for hair. This is a little confusing because DL-Panthenol only converts into Vit. B5 when it comes into contact with living tissue. Your hair shafts are not living tissue. The keratin which makes up your hair is dead. Therefore, the DL-Panthenol only converts to Vit. B5 on the scalp. A deficiency of Vitamin B5 can cause hair loss. DL-Panthenol converts to Vitamin B5 on your scalp, which can reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth.

DL-Panthenol makes the keratin layers lie flat. If you look at one of your hairs under a microscope, you’ll see that it has lots of overlapping keratin scales – sort of like roof tiles overlapping.

When your hair is bleached or coloured, the bleach lifts the keratin scales so that the product can bleach the cortex of the hair shaft. That is what lightens the hair colour. If you don’t apply a suitable product afterwards, your hair will feel like straw because all those raised keratin scales feel very rough. Your hair will be very prone to breakage.

Two-tone hair colour conditioned with DL-Panthenol

Along comes DL-Panthenol to the rescue. It binds easily to the hair shaft and closes the keratin layers down, so they lie very flat against each other. This makes the hair very easy to comb through, as it will not tangle. The flat keratin also reflects the light very well, so your hair will look shiny. Keeping the keratin scales flat also keeps moisture locked into the hair shaft better, which stops it from being so dry. That will also make it stronger and more flexible – much less prone to breakage. Your hair will be easier to style and less prone to damage from heated devices like curling tongs.

It gets even better. If you have coloured your hair, it will slow down the oxidation as it protects the hair cortex. That means your colour will last longer and not fade so fast.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is DL-Panthenol?

It is also known as Pro-Vitamin B5, and is a white powder that is a natural constituent of healthy hair and living cells. It is commonly used in hair and skin care products for its moisturising and nourishing properties.

How will DL-Panthenol Benefit My Hair and Skin?

It helps to hydrate and smooth your skin, as well as condition and moisturise your hair. It can penetrate your skin as well as your hair cuticles, providing essential nutrients and promoting overall health and vitality.


Incorporating DL-Panthenol, also known as ProVitamin B5, into your skincare and haircare routines brings a bunch of awesome benefits. This versatile ingredient deeply hydrates and nourishes your hair and skin. It keeps your skin supple, helps with anti-ageing, and effectively soothes irritation. Plus, it strengthens your skin’s defences and even fights redness caused by the sun.

For your hair, DL-Panthenol is a moisture magnet, taming frizz and making your hair easier to manage. It’s a superhero solution that transforms your scalp with the power of Vitamin B5 helping to reduce hair loss and boost regrowth. And it’s not just about looks – it protects your hair’s colour and structure, making it more resilient against styling damage. In a nutshell, DL-Panthenol is your go-to for vibrant skin and strong, fabulous hair!


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